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Patented Apr. 18, I899.

I W. P. GAMMONS, JR.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed. Apr. 8, 1898.) I (Ni! Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet I.

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SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Apr. 8, 1898.) (No Model.) 5 Sheets8heet 2.

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no. 23,! v Patented Apr. 18, I899.

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SEWING MACHINE.

(Application me; Apr. 5, 1898.)

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SEWING MACHINE pplication med A n's, 1898) 5 Sheets-Shqet. 4.

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NrrE STAT S PATENT Erica.

WELCOME PENNSON GAMMONS, JR., OF NE\V YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO THE CRESCENT SEXVING MACHINE COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 623,147, dated April 18, 1899.

Application filed April 8, 1898. Serial No. 676,853. (No model.)

To (I/ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WELooMn PENNSON GAMMONS, Jr., a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to sewing-machines, and is designed more particularly as an improvement upon the sewingmachine disclosed in my Letters Patent No. 566,858, dated September 1, 1806, which is adapted to connect a sweat-band and reed-cloth togetherand to the folded edge of a hat in one operation.

One of the objects of my present invention is to provide a sewing-machine adapted to form stitches through a sweat-band, a reedcloth, and the folded edge of a hat, so as to connect the same, and other stitches over the edge of the sweat-band and through the reedcloth below, but not above, the reed or cord in the bight thereof and over the folded edge of the hat, such latter stitches being designed to snugly secure the reed or cord in the bight of the cloth and cause the said bight to set out from the folded edge of the hat, whereby it is enabled to prevent said folded edge and the connecting-stitches from contacting with the hair and forehead of the wearer and being deteriorated by perspiration and is also enabled to prevent the connecting-stitchesfrom chafing the forehead of the wearer.

Another object of the invention is to provide a material-guide embodying such a construction that it will permit of the ends of the reed-cloth being lapped and connected to-' bro ken away and the hat-holderoniitted. Fig. 4 is an enlarged vertical section taken in the plane indicated by the line was of Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a detail section taken in the plane indicated-by the line y y of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a detail perspective view of the improved loopretainer of the stitch-forming mechanism. Fig. 7 is an enlarged vertical section illustrating a portion of the vertically-movable frame and a portion of the mechanism through the medium of which it is reciprocated. Fig.

'8 is a detail section taken in the plane indicated by the line to w of Fig. 7. Fig. 9 is an enlarged perspective view of the guide for the sweat-band, the reed, the reed-cloth, and

the folded edge of a hat, the same being shown in the positions they are caused to assume by the guide and the needle being shown in its lower position by dotted lines. Fig. 10 is an inverted plan view of the guide. Fig. 11 is a transverse section taken in the plane indicated by the line 2; o of Fig. 9. Fig. 12 is an enlarged transverse section taken in the plane indicated by the line to u of Fig. 9. Fig. 13 is a detail front elevation of the loop-taker and a portion of the mechanism through the medium of which it is actuated, .and Fig. 14 is a side elevation of the same.

In the said drawings similar letters and unmerals designate corresponding parts in all of the several views, referring to which-- A designates the base of the machine, B the overhanging fixed arm, and C the drive-shaft, which is journaled in the arm B, as shown. The said drive-shaft is provided with a disk D, having a peripheral cam-groove a, which engages the lug I), carried at the upper end of a lever E, as shown. The lower end of lever E is extended through the base A and loosely connected to one end of a horizontal lever F, which is provided with a slot 0 for the adjustable connection of a pitman G.

materials forwardly while the vertically-slidable frame (presently described) is in its upper position and at the beginning of the outward stroke of the needle, for a purpose presen tly pointed out.

L designates a clamping-wheel carried by a lever L, which is fulcrumed upon the base A and is designed to be moved by the camlever M, so as to carry the wheel L away from the feed-wheel K to permit of the interposition of materials between the same. The clamping-wheel L is normally pressed toward the feed-wheel K or the materials between the two by reason of the spring-lever j, (see Fig. 3,) which is fulcrumed at 7i; and bears at one end against a stud Z, depending from the lever L, and is engaged at its opposite end by a screw L From this it follows that through the medium of the screw L the pressure against the lever L, and consequently that 'of the wheel L against the wheel K, may be increased or diminished as desired.

Mounted in suitable ways in the face of the overhanging or fixed arm B is a verticallyslidable frame N. This frame is provided on its inner side with a pin carrying an antifriction-roller Z designed to move in the camgroove m of the wheel or disk P upon the forward end of the drive-shaft C, (see Figs. 7 and 8,) whereby it will be seen that at each rotation of said shaft the frame and its appurtenances will be lowered and raised, such movement of the frame being properly timed with respect to the movements of the other parts, as will be presently pointed out.

Journaled in brackets 01 on the frame N is a rock-shaftp, upon one end ofwhich is fixed the swinging arm Q of a needle R. -q designates a beveled gear on the driveshaft 0, which meshes with a pinion 1' on a short shaft which extends through one wall of the arm 13 'and carries a disk 5 at its outer.

end. To said disk is connected one end of a pitman t, which is connected at its forward end to a crank-arm S, fixed upon the end of the shaft 1) opposite to that to which the arm Q is connected, whereby it will be seen that when the drive-shaft is rotated the needle R will be reciprocated. The crank-arm S is provided at its upper end with an approximately T-shaped head T, in which is formed a cam-slot 'u, designed to impart a vertical reciprocatory movement to a bar U for a purpose presently described. The said bar U is connected at its upper end with a reciprocatory guide-bar U by a bolt U and on the said bolt and arranged to travel in the camslot of the head T is an an tifriction-roller U In order to properly support the hat when the same is clamped between the wheel L and the feed-wheel K, a hanger WV is provided, the same being connected to the base A, as better shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings. The said hanger has a vertical slot a, and in said slot is arranged the vertically-movable support A, which is provided with a threaded socket b for the reception of the adj usting-screw c,

B, and the said lever, which has the rotary platform 0 at its forward end to support the hat-holder D, has its rear and lower end arranged upon aspring E, whereby it will be seen that when a hat is properly arranged in the holder D and the support A is properly adjusted the folded edge of the said hat will be yieldingly pressed upwardly in the guide (presently described) and will therefore be moved and held by the feed and clamping wheel in a proper position.

The construction thus far described is similar to that embodied in the machine forming the subject-matter of my aforesaid Letters Patent with the exception that in the said patented machine the parts are sotimed that a single stitch will be formed when the vertically-movable frame is in its upper position and also when it is in its lower position, while in the machine herein disclosed the parts are so timed that one stitch is formed when the vertically-movable frame is depressed and two stitches when said frame is raised. Such patented construction is shown in the drawings for the purpose of assisting in imparting a clear and exact understanding of my invention, which I will now proceed to describe.

1 (see Figs. 13 and 14) designates a rockshaft journaled in and movable with the reciprocatory frame N. This shaft is provided with c a loop-taker 2, arranged to cooperate Ioo with the needle R in the formation of stitches,

fulcrumed at 7 on the frame N, so as to enable it to rock in a plane at right angles to the path of the needle R, and it is provided with the thread-engaging hook 8 and also with a slot 9, as illustrated. The said slot of the loop-retainer receives a stud 10, carried by an arm 11, fixedly connected to the face of the overhanging arm B, whereby it will be seen that when the frame N is reciprocated or raised and lowered the loop-retainer will be rocked on its fulcrum.

12 designates the body of my improved material-guide, which is preferably connected with the base A in the same manner as in my aforesaid Letters Patentthat is to say, through the medium of brackets 13. This body 12 is provided in its under side with a groove 14, which comprises a rearor inner portion 15, designed to receive and guide the folded edge of a hat, and a comparatively deep front or outer portion 16, which is designed to receive and guide a reed-cloth and the reed therein. The outer wall 17 of said groove 14 is broken away at about the proportional distance illustrated from the needleopening 18 of the guide, and the'forward end of the inner wall of the groove portion 16 is beveled, as indicated by 19, for a purpose presently described.

20 designates the lever of the guide, which is provided in its under side with a way or groove 21, designed to receive and guide a sweat-band. This lever 20 is fulcrumed on the guide-body and backed by a spring 22 andis enabled, in virtue of the wall 17 of the groove 14 in the guide-body being broken away, to press the sweat-band against the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat,so'as to securely.

hold the same in proper position with respect to each other while they are being stitched together. The lever 20 is further advantageous inasmuch as by pressing its rear end toward the guide-body its forward portion, in which the groove 21 is formed, may be moved away from the guide-body, so as to permit of a ready interposition of the sweat-band in said groove.

The inner wall of the groove 21 of thelever 20 is broken away for a considerable distance from the forward end of the lever, so as to enable the roof of said groove to serve, in conjunction with the roof of the portion 15 of the groove 14in the guide-body, to hold the folded edge of the hat in its proper position. Also the portion of the lever contiguous to the inner wall of the portion 16 of the groove in the guide-body is grooved, as indicated by 23, to enable it, in conjunction with the said wall of the body and a short wall 24 at the forward extremity of the lever, to form a continuation of the groove 16 of the body, which is adapted to hold the reed up in the bight of the cloth and also hold both reed and reed-cloth in proper position at the point where the cloth is stitched to the sweat-band and the folded edge of a hat. The vertical wall 25 of the groove 23 in lever 20 is beveled and serves, in conjunction with the bevel 19 of the guidebody, to form a flaring mouth 26 at the forward end of the guideway in which the reed and reed-cloth are arranged, as best shown in Fig. 10. I

' The manner in which the guide is used is as follows: The back end of the folded edge of the hat is placed in the way 14, one end of the reed and its covering-cloth are placed in the portion 16 of groove 14 and are extended about one inch beyond the path of the needle, and one end of the sweat-leather is then inserted in the guide 21 to the needle-opening or the path of the needle. The parts having been thus placed in position, the clampingwheel L is manipulated to press the materials against the feed-wheel-K, and the sewing is commenced and is continuedluntil the extended end of the reed and reed-cover approaches the gage. At this time the machine is stopped and the operator laps the ends of the reed-cloth-2'. 6., inserts one end of the reed and reed-cloth into the other end of the reed-cloth and cuts the last end of the sweatleather to conform to the first. With this done the sewing is continued until the connection of the reed-cloth, sweat-leather, and hat is completed and the-lapped ends of the reed-cloth are connected together. From this it follows that the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and folded edge of the hat are connected together, and the lapped ends of the reed-cloth are also connected, which is advantageous, since it obviates the necessity of removing the materials from the machine in order to effect such latter connection. The flaring mouth 26 at the forward end of the reed and reed-cloth guideway is designed to accommodate the lapped portions of the reed-cloth while the same are being connected by stitches and forms an important part of the guide, since if said guide were not provided with means for accommodating the lapped portions of the reed-cloth it would be necessary to remove the materials from the machine in order to connect the ends of the cloth.

In Fig. 12 of the drawings I have illustrated by full lines the positions in which the sweatband, the reed and reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat are presented'to the needle and by dotted lines the path of the needle when the frame N is depressed and the path of the needle when said frame is raised. From this it follows that when the frame N is raised the needle will take over the edge of the sweat-band, although immediately adjacent thereto, and through the reed-cloth below the reed, in the bight thereof, and over the folded edge of the hat, so as to snuglysecure the upper edge of the sweat-band against the cloth and also secure the reed or cord in the bight of the cloth and cause the said'bight to set out from the folded edge of the hat, whereby it is enabled to prevent said folded edge and the connecting-stitches from contacting with the hair and forehead of the wearer and being deteriorated by perspiration. It also follows that when the frame N is depressed the needle will form stitches through the sweat-band, the reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat and securely connect the same together.

The special stitch forming mechanism which I have shown and described will when employed in conjunction with the guide described connect the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of a hat after the manner pointed out. It will also dress or ornament the space between the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat and is advantageous for such reason. Its operation is as follows: Vith the frame N in its upper position it will beseen that upon the inward stroke of the needle R the bar U is given an upward movement, and the loop-taker 2 is vibrated and its point raised to a plane above the path of the needle. Upon the downstroke of the bar U and during the receding stroke of the needle the loop-taker will rock inwardly to take the thread bight or loop from the needle. Also during such receding movement of the needle the materials will be fed forwardly a slight distance through the medium of the feedwheel K. On the subsequent inward stroke of the needle the loop-taker will shed its first loop and on the receding stroke of the needle will take another loop therefrom and draw it through the first loop, or the loop which it had just shed. The strokes of the needle thus far described will, because of the frame N being raised, be through the reed-cloth and over the folded edge of the hat and above the sweatband. During the said latter receding stroke of the needle the frame N will be depressed,

and in consequence the loop-retainer 6 will be moved in the direction indicated. by arrow, (see Fig. 5,) and its hook 8 will take and retain a loop. On the subsequent inward stroke of the needle, which is now in its lower position, it will take through the loop held by the retainer 6, and at the same time the loop-taker 2 will shed its loop and on the receding stroke of the needle will take another loop from the needle and draw it through the loop which it had previously shed. Also on the receding stroke of the needle the frame N will be raised and the loop-retainer will be moved in the direction' opposite to that indicated by arrow in Fig. 5 and will in consequence shed its loop, after which the operation described is repeated. It will be observed from the foregoing that the needle will form two stitches while the frame N is in its upper position and but one stitch while said frame is in its lower position, also that the forwardfeed of the materials while the frame N is in its upper position and subsequent to the shedding of the loop by the loop-retainer 6 will draw the said loop taut and cause it to lie between the reedcloth and the folded edge of the hat, and thereby materially enhance the finish of the hat. Vhile the strokes of the needle when the frame N is in its upper position do not take through the sweat-band, yet they take immediately above said edge, and thereby serve to snugly secure the same against the reed-cloth,

Z designates a guard which is disposed below the feed-wheel K and has for its purpose to prevent said wheel from chafing the brim of a hat while the same is being operated on.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is I 1; In a hat-sewing machine, the combination of a fixed guide having ways for a sweatband and the folded edge of a hat arranged in the same or approximately the same plane and also having a way for a reed and a reedcloth arranged between and in a plane above the other ways; said reed and reed-cloth way having the flaring mouth at its forward end, a frame movable toward and from the guide,

and an organizedstitch-forming mechanism carried by said frame and arranged to form stitches when the frame is in its upper and lower positions, substantially as specified.

2. In a hat-sewing machine, a fixed guide having ways for a sweat-band and the folded edge of a hat arranged in the same or approximately the same horizontal plane and also having a way for a reed and a reed-cloth arranged between and in a plane above the other ways; in combination with aframe movable toward and from the guide, a suitable feed mechanism, and an organized stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle, a loop-taker and a loop-retainer movable in a direction at right angles to the needle and loop-taker; the stitch-forming mechanism being arranged to form stitches when the frame is in its lower position and stitches when'the frame is in its upper position, and the frame being so arranged and having movements-of such extent that the lower stitches will be through the sweat-band, the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat while the upper stitches will be over the edge of the sweatband, through the reed-cloth below the reed and over the folded edge of the hat, whereby the sweat-band, reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat are connected without covering the bight of the reed-cloth and the space between said reed-cloth and the hat is dressed, substantially as specified.

3. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a main frame, a stud 1O fixed with respect to the same, a vertically-movable frame, and an organized stitch-forming mechanism carried by the vertically-movable frame and comprising a needle, a loop-taker and a loop-retainer; the latter being pivoted or fulcrumed on the vertically-movable frame and having a cam-slot receiving the stud 10 on the mainhaving ways in the body for the reception of a reed and reed-cloth and the folded edge of a hat, respectively, and a way in the lever for the reception of a sweat-band and also having a continuation of the reed and reed-cloth way formed between the leverand body and flared at its forward end and further having the wall '24 on the lever at the forward extremity thereof, substantially as specified.

6. A guide for hat-sewing machines comprisinga body and a spring-pressed lever, and having ways in the body and lever in the same or approximately the same plane for the reception of the folded edge of a hat and a sweat-band, respectively, and a way in the body, arranged between and in a plane above the other Ways, for the reception of a reed In testimony whereof I have hereunto set and reed-cloth, and also having a continuamy hand in presence of two subscribing wittion of the reed and reed-010th Way formed nesses.

between the lever and body and flared at its WELCOME PENNSON GAMMONS, JR. forward end, and further having the Wall 24 Witnesses:

at the forward extremity of the lever, snb- WILLIAM A. KNIGHT,

stentia-Hy as specified. CHARLES A. DEARBORN. 

